The garden strawberry is a cultivated cross between wild strawberries native to eastern North America and present-day Chile in South America. European wild strawberries, Fragaria vesca and Fragaria moschata, have been cultivated in Europe since Roman times and until the Middle Ages. Varieties native to the Americas have been brought back and grown in France. The garden strawberry known today was first developed in 1700, developed into a large number of varieties and types, and has much larger and sweeter fruits than wild strawberries.

Three general categories of strawberries are related to the way they ripen and bear fruit. Strawberries from June (sometimes called short-day strawberries) bear fruits that ripen once a year as a large crop. These will ripen from after spring to early summer (usually in June). Persistent strawberries bear fruit in large quantities twice a year, first at the beginning of the season, then again in early autumn. Harvesting periods for both types are related to the length of the day at this time of year. Neutral strawberries per day were bred from evergreen types. These will bear fruit gradually and regularly throughout the summer, without any change in production during the longer days.

Strawberries are used in many ways, including to be eaten raw, in salads, baked, used in smoothies and to make strawberry jam! They are an excellent source of nutrition, being rich in vitamin C and antioxidants, and are a good source of potassium. They are high in fiber, while being low in calories and carbohydrates.

Strawberry: Pineapple Fragaria
Perennial (maximum 3-4 years, sometimes grown as an annual)
Full sun
The acidity of the soil should be slightly acidic (pH from 5.4 to 6.5).
Fertile, well-drained soil.

Garden planting:

crowns of plants spaced 12″

6 ” deep hole, with sparse roots

Fill the hole to the crown (do not bury the crown)

Planting containers

plant garlands with 12 “between plants, or a plant in a 12″wide container

Keep well watered and make sure you get plenty of sunlight

Climatic zones 4-10 (as perennials 5-8)

Young evergreen or June strawberries should be planted in early spring, after the last frost. Even neutral strawberries for the day can be successfully grown in this way. In heat up climates, neutral strawberries can also be grown as annuals and planted in after summer or early autumn, to take advantage of the slightly cooler temperatures of autumn and winter. The soil should be slightly acidic, but fertile and well drained. It’s a good idea to dig deep enough where you plant them, at least a foot deep or a little more. Completely eliminate any weeds that may be there. If necessary, add compost. The soil should be slightly acidic, test kits will be useful for this.

Before planting, slightly cut the roots from the crowns and soak them for a couple of hours. Dig a little in the area prepared for them, spread the roots on a small rounded hill of earth in the hole and bury the roots completely. Leave the crown itself exposed, with the floor level also with the bottom of the crown (do not cover it). Water abundantly and leave about 12 inches between each plant and about two to three feet between each row. Alternatively, plant a double row 18 ” apart between rows and a 2.5-foot wide aisle. Leaving some extra space between plants is ACCEPTABLE, this will leave room for runners to remove and discard or replant. It is best to use a thick layer of mulch, such as straw or newspaper, around the plants. This will reduce pests and weeds to some extent and ensure that the soil remains moist and not overheated. Strawberries need frequent watering, about 1-2 inches once a week if you don’t get as much rain. More frequent watering may be necessary during dry periods.

Strawberries can also be grown from seeds. These must be started inside after a process called “cold rolling”.”The seeds must be exposed to the cold as part of the ripening process. Put the seeds in the freezer for about a month, in December, then take out the seeds and let them thaw at room temperature. Plant them in potting soil with small starter pots or starter trays, with a light earth cover, and put grow lights that shine from above. They will sprout 1 to 6 weeks after if the soil is kept moist and heat. Once they are growing, transplant them into larger containers. Wait until after the last frost to transplant them into the garden or keep them as potted plants.

Strawberries are also perfect for containers. You will need a fairly large pot, about 12 inches wide and at least 8 inches deep, with good drainage holes. The usual benefits of using containers all apply here, including control of available light, good pest control, easy-care floor, and space conservation. Strawberries transplanted into pots will do well quickly, and a crown can be planted directly in a pot as easily as in a garden bed. Potted plants usually last 2 to 3 years, compared to 3-4 years for garden strawberries. It is important to water more frequently, even every day, as the soil dries faster. Make sure they get enough sunlight. Water more often than garden strawberries, usually twice a week or daily during dry periods. Ensure proper nutrition for potted strawberries, as they do not have access to the full range of nutrients available in the garden. A good spraying of liquid fertilizer at soil level every few weeks is usually fine. Move the pots to a sheltered but unheated place for the winter. They will become dormant naturally, but containers will need some protection from the cold.

Borage can be the best companion plant for strawberries in your garden. This plant attracts pollinators and repels some pests, including hornorm It adds nutrition to the soil, which is especially useful for strawberries. Other plants that attract pollinators well include lavender, also a great companion. Beans and peas are a good choice, as are lettuce and spinach. Garlic and onions work very well with strawberries, and their strong smell will repel many pests. It is important to avoid planting brassicas such as cabbage, cabbage, cabbage, mustard, broccoli or Bruell Tomatoes, peppers and potatoes should also be separated.

Pests that will annoy strawberries include strawberry weevils (strawberry clippers), spider mites, horny worms, surveyors, thrips and Japanese beetles. Snails can also be a problem. It is important to check for traces of mud and manually remove the slugs as they appear. Fungal health issues can also be a problem. Some common are powdery mildew, gray mold, anthracnose and, unfortunately, verticillium wilt. Neem oil Spra sp is an effective organic treatment for many fungal health issues, but prevention is the best remedy. It is important to plant strawberries free of health issues. Water your plants flush with the soil (avoid aerial spraying) and keep your plants well spaced. Angular leaf spot is the most common bacterial health issue. This is spread by pests, and again, prevention, including watering the soil, is best.

To collect the berries, wait until they are fully ripe. Control the color and firmness. They will be fully ripe when there is no green left at the end or near the stem. Pinch the stem and leave a small piece of it attached to the strawberry to avoid bruising on the fruit. They need to be used as soon as possible, they do not last long. If you have a large crop, save those that are not used right away by freezing them. Cut them in half and place on parchment paper on a large metal tray. Put them in the freezer overnight, and once completely frozen, you can easily store them in a freezer bag for after use.